Finding Magic on the Mountain River

By Katherine Heinle

Unexpected treasures can be found on any canoe trip, but the Mountain River presented a new wave of surprises. With fewer than 40 people reported to travel this river each year, it seemed utterly untouched, an enigma. Each day brought a new adventure.

There was the day we were caught in the eye of a storm, as if it were following our every move. To my left was the darkest sky known to man. To my right, a wall of sheer white—scarier still. We quickly found out what was behind those two shields of nature: intense rain, then mild hail, thunder and lightning, and severe wind.

Katherine marvels at a canyon on the Mountain River. (Alice Petty)

Katherine smiles in a canoe. (Alice Petty)

Paddling down a set of continuous fastwater, I could barely see my bowman, Paige, let alone steer the boat properly. Paige and I yelled back and forth, attempting to communicate as we were pushed into the gravel riverbed on either side of us.

In the end, the storm that engulfed us brought something mystical: A triple rainbow began to form. I stared in astonishment, and couldn’t help but think that the day had turned out better than a fictitious pot of gold.

Then there was the day we hiked to a set of three waterfalls. At the base of the first, we watched the water tumble down and eventually boil over with mist. After staring in awe for almost too long, we found a path upward. Carefully, we scaled the wall of rock and saw yet another waterfall. Curious about what else might lay ahead, we remained steadfast in our venture, and continued upward.

It was then that we came upon the third set, which held aquamarine pools. Some of us gaped at the nature, some captured the beauty through photography, and some daringly plunged into the water.

I watched Paige cannonball into the deepness while Emily and I opted to use the waterfall as a makeshift shower. We were shocked by the frigid water, yet chose to carry on because we didn’t know if we’d ever have such an opportunity again.

Collectively, these moments came together to form an unbelievable trip. From chilling afternoon baths in aquamarine pools to the excitement of encountering a grizzly bear curiously watching us from the shore, each became an unexpected memento that we would cherish dearly.

The Mountain River showed us adversity and spontaneity, but it was the variety and range of these simple moments that made them great ones.

Growing up, family dinners always included epic stories told by Kooch-i-ching men. Now I have my own to share.

This article was originally published in the Fall 2019 issue of Songs of the Paddle.